Overview
Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the most spectacular mountain climbing adventures in Nepal. The isolated Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m/22349ft.) is one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Located just to the south of Everest in Khumbu valley, it is distinguished by its vertical walls to the south and north as well as the sharp exposed ridges from all directions. Ama is considered the Motherhood of the Himalaya. Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace" the long ridges on each side is like the arms of a mother carrying her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the Dablam, which traditionally is worn by Sherpa woman as a double-pendant containing pictures of the Gods. A pearl of beauty in itself that commands its surroundings and captures your attention by its presence outstanding image of ice wall. This expedition is a serious undertaking and is a strong prerequisite to Everest. In terms of technicality Ama Dablam is considered harder than Everest. It demands a high skill level in rock climbing and ice climbing; sufficient experience at high elevation and technical competency. Ama Dablams summit is located at 27°51'42'' N longitude and 86°51'40'' E latitude.
The climbing legend of Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatized to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions in Nepal. The most popular route by far is the original first ascend route along the Southwest Ridge. The climb is typically done with three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier (mushroom ridge ). A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. You need to have a strong base of rock and ice climbing experience to climb this mountain. Most of the route on Ama Dablam is fixed, so climbers will need to be competent at ascending and descending fixed ropes and passing via anchors. There is one pitch on the route that is just about dead vertical, so practice ascending a vertical fixed rope before the expedition.
Climbing season is April- May and September - December to Ama Dablam.The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangements of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m. Camp 3 is located on the shoulder of the ridge just below and to the left of the last steep snow climb to the summit.. Most climbers summit from camp 2(yellow tower and do not establish a camp 3, who are very strong climber and on the tope around 100m space remain. Amazing Nepal Journey always dedicating such a great adventure expedition in Himalayn world.