Mt. Makalu(8463 M) is the fourth tallest in Nepal and fifth highest Peak in the World. Mt. Makalu resides in the eastern Himalayas range just 20Km southeast of the giant Mt. Everest in the border of Nepal and China.Mt. Makalu expedition is one of the best and really remote with Ultimately Adventure who loves mountains. Amazingly climb to Makalu with full of joy. It was in 1955, when the expedition led by French team reached to the top of Mt. Makalu for the first time. Only five of the first sixteen attempts were successful. Makalu bears a pyramid shape. South East and the North West Ridges being the most prominent compared to other. The base camp is normally set at around 5,600m, and then four camps follow before reaching the top. The first camp is at 6,100m, camp 2 is at 6800m, the third camp is at 7200m and the last camp is at 7600m- 7900m.
The South East Ridge and the Northwest Ridge are the main climbing routes on Mt. Makalu. The 8485m peak usually takes around 48 days to climb. Most climbers are able to climb Makalu in both the spring and autumn seasons. It is located at the coordinates of 27°53'21'' N and 87°05'27'' E. The approach to Makalu is beautiful and elegant, the Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. Within this wide range of altitudes and climates, the Makalu-Barun area contains some of the richest and most diverse flora and fauna of Nepal. Diverse ethnic communities of Rai and Sherpa have inhibited in the valley.
The climbing itself is appropriate for both the experienced climber and the novice climber making their first 8,000 meter peak ascent. The climbing consists of easy glaciers low on the mountain, steep ice and snow climbing to the Makalu La and above Camp IV a final rock ridge to the summit. Makalu is a steep and consistent climb, and in the spring season has excellent snow coverage and low hazards like icefalls, rock falling and avalanche. Amazing Nepal Journey Treks and Expedition utilizes oxygen above 7,000 meters and climbing guide support with fixed ropes throughout the climb route and set up the tent etc.
Makalu Advanced Base Camp (5600M):
Makalu Advanced base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. Expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between different groups and with a strategic view of the Makalu massif. Amazing Nepal Journey Treks & Expedition provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is sharing in the group, a shower tent and toilet tent too. When you arrive at base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck and safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Makalu Camp 1 (6,100m),4hrs:
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I which is at a height of 6200m. In the first section of glacier you will encounter rock slabs and moraine. Once on the glacier you will be on mixed terrain and crevasses with blue ice. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour after that you reach the crampon point at the mouth of the glacier. For average climbers it takes about 3-4 hours. Camp I is divided into two sections, lower camp I and upper camp I. So camp 1 is fixed between 6100-6400m.
Makalu Camp 2 (6800m) 3hrs:
The climbing from camp I to camp II is considered the moderate technical section on Mt. Makalu. This section is ice and snow part. The first section is slogging over snow for around an hour, and then you encounter several steep sections of ice, there are small sections of ice fall. These sections can be crossed with the support of fixed ropes, a few big steps and some steep snow climbing. Camp 2 is situated above the snowy terrace wit Amazing views.
Makalu Camp 3 (7200m) 4-5hrs:
The distance from camp II to camp III is the longest part of the route, it extends arount 600m. It does not require any ladder crossings, but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter long that need to be jumped. The main ropes are fixed by a climbing Guide. This section for most climbers feels easier, but still it is not to be taken lightly. The climbing is on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. From the III camp 40% of climbers plan to do their summit to Mt. Makalu. However, Amazing Nepal Journey always fixes camp IV before the summit so that climber can get chance a half nights rest. This section takes about 4 hours for normal climbers and 5 hours for slower.
Makalu Camp 4 (7900m):
Climbing from camp III to camp IV looks like a short day, however feels so difficult due to altitude . The oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that.. In this part you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow that is on a 50º-55º slope. This section is little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make the section avalanche prone. Amazing Nepal Journey make easier and day for Summit.
Makalu Summit day (8485m)-15 hrs:
This day is very important for main goal to summit the peak. If all goes well they reach the summit between 8-10am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 5 hours to return to Camp 4 from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp three for overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the Amazing Mountains view. Amazing Nepal Journey' Guide will make fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 5th highest mountain in the world.
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